GruppeM M3 Intake Installation

By Imola Ed

Wow! Lucky you, you have a GruppeM Intake for your M3. First, you need to unpack that sucker.

 

One you get everything out and see the instructions, you'll realize they're in Japanese. No worries though. We'll step you through the installation process. It's easy!

Disclaimer

We are providing this information to aid you in the install of this item. While these steps and techinques worked for us, we cannot be held responsible for any damage you do to your own vehicle. You are performing this work at your own risk!

Tools Required

Pliers or cutters, flat-head screwdriver, philips-head screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, utility knife. You are also provided with two wrenches in the GruppeM kit which you will need — a gold one and a black one. The gold one is to take off the airflow meter, and the black one is to use on the V-clamps as you'll see.

Instructions

  1. Start by removing the standard air duct. There are four clips to remove, indicated in Figure 1. You can use a pair of pliers or the cutters (Figure 2) to pull out the pins so that the clips can be removed. Pull slowly so the pins don't go flying across the room!
  2. The duct should just come off easily (Figure 3).
  3. Next, you can pull the elbow piece out of the stock airbox if you wish, as shown in Figure 4. This isn't strictly necessary, but it's more parts out of the the way.
  4. Next, for you Bi-Xenon people, you need to disconnect and unbolt the xenon igniter, as one of the bolts that attaches it rests on one of the legs of the airbox. First, disconnect the two connectors that are plugged into the igniter (Figure 5). Remove the plastic cover (Figure 6). Lastly, there are two bolts and one nut (all 10mm) that you need to remove (Figure 7).
  5. Next, disconnect the air flow meter connector (Figure 8). Squeeze the sides to release the tabs. It should pull right off. Tuck it aside someplace safe.
  6. Loosen the hose clamp connecting the airbox to the manifold using a flat-head screwdriver (Figure 9).
  7. Remove the airbox. You might need to pry up on the hose a bit to shake it loose as shown in Figure 10. It should pop right out.
  8. Note how big that sucker is, and how much engine space it takes! Wow! You can take this opportunity to clean up the dirt that was previously unreachable (Figures 11, 12).
  9. Next, we'll divert our attention to the front inner grille. We need to cut it. Yes, you heard me. If you look at the original Japanese instructions, you'll see where the cuts should be made. It's pretty obvious, and it's really easy. Be sure to leave the center tab longer. It needs to fit into the slot in the new intake duct. You can trim it down after the install is complete. Figure 13 shows where to make the cut and Figure 14 shows the way things should look once you are done. Pardon my dirt. You can test fix the new air duct to make sure the tab fits through the slot (Figure 15). You will need to be creative with the utility knife to shape the tab accordingly.
  10. There are two parts we reuse from the original airbox — the air flow meter and the rectifying screen. First, remove the air flow meter using the gold colored wrench included with the GruppeM kit. You need to use this wrench as it specially made for the screw heads on the airflow meter (Figure 16). Remove the airflow meter carefully and set it aside (Figure 17). Be extra careful not to damage it, else you're gonna be in a world of hurt.
  11. Now we need to get the rectifier screen out of the stock airbox. Open the stock air box and turn the top upside down. You will see a funnel attached by two screws. Remove the screws with a philips-head screwdriver and take the screen out. It should come out with no problem. (Figures 18-20).
  12. Now, take the airflow meter and attach it to the adapter ring, which is polished silver and looks hella cool. It is pretty obvious which way it fits based on the screw holes. Attach it with the included screws (B). They are silver in color and have a fairly wide head. (Figure 21)
  13. Next, we install the rectifier into its new home. Use the flat metal plate and place the rectifier into it. There are grooves you line up to fit them together. Use the two small spacers included with the kit and attach the plate to the black housing. Use two of screw (A) plus their corresponding nut to fasten them. Refer to the illustration in the original instructions for more detail on how they fit. (Figure 22)
  14. Connect the rectifier housing to the airflow meter adapter using the short section of hose in the kit. Tighten the bands on the hose to secure the two pieces. The airflow meter needs to be pointing the right way — consult Figure 23 for the proper orientation.
  15. Undo the clamp holding the angled flange onto the new airbox and take the opposite end of the flange and attach it onto the assembly you've been building. At this point, the assembly is complete. We are ready to install it in the car. (Figure 24)
  16. Connect the duct to the airbox using screws (C). Don't tighten completely at this time. (Figure 25)
  17. Connect the assembly we built onto the airbox using the clamp you removed earlier. Or you can do this when things are in place. (Figure 26)
  18. Place the entire intake into the vehicle. You will need to push the hose downward a bit to make the hose fit right onto the airlfow meter adapter. You can also loosen the hose band on the other end of the elbow to turn it a little if you so desire. Tighten the hose onto the adapter with a screwdriver. (Figure 27)
  19. Reconnect the air flow meter connector. (Figure 28)
  20. Using the remaining screws (A) and corresponding nuts, attach the intake duct to the grille area. Make sure the long tab we cut earlier sticks through the slot in the duct. (Figure 29)
  21. If there is any place the airbox is coming in contact with the body of the vehicle, place the strip of cushion tape accordingly to avoid any rattling.
  22. Now would be a good time to finish tightening the screws you installed in step 16 that hold the air duct onto the airbox.
  23. If you removed the xenon igniter, put it back. Since the stock airbox leg is no longer there, you will need to use the large black spacer to fit under the lower leg of the igniter. (Figure 30). Put the plastic cover back on the igniter and connect the two things you unplugged at the beginning.
  24. You are done! Start her up and see how she runs!

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